Our outings this summer were fun and at times educational. However, they were just mere stepping stones to our biggest adventure of the 2019 summer break, an epic road trip to four National Parks! The planning of our monumental journey started back in March. I knew where I wanted to go, but just needed a plan. So, I got on Google Maps and started plotting the course. The trip would take us nine days and have us traveling through ten states. Besides visiting four National Parks, we would also visit one National Memorial, one National Monument, eight National Forests (driving through another three), two National Recreational Areas, one National Grassland and driving on an All-American Road. After the route was determined the next step was to book some sleeping accommodations. There was discussion of whether we wanted to camp or just stay at hotels throughout the trip. Since the government shutdown (happening at the time of trip planning) did not allow me to access park facilities, I decided to just go ahead and book hotels. I also wanted to ensure that after very long days of site seeing, we all got a good night sleep. The thought of pitching a tent every night, just to take it down the next day, seemed rather exhausting.
A few days before our departure, I visited the website, everykidoutdoors.gov. This site allows 4th graders to acquire a free pass to visit all government run parks, lands and waters for an entire year, with their family. The process was super easy and we were able to print out our pass within minutes. Thanks Morgan!
Day 1 – Badlands National Park, Wall Drug Store and Mount Rushmore
We left early on Tuesday, August 20th, around 6:00am. We took Interstate 90 west. We went through Wisconsin(1) and then through Minnesota(2). Thankfully we missed a decent looking storm. We just drove next to it. Never fun to drive in the pouring rain. At one point we stopped for gas in the town of Welcome, Minnesota. We got a kick out of the sign, Welcome to Welcome.
We arrived at Badlands National Park, South Dakota (3), around 5pm (MST). We took Highway 240 Loop Road, to enjoy the park. We were greeted with jaw dropping views. Chris had visited the Badlands before, but this was the first time for me and the kids. We couldn’t get over the terrain. It looked like we were on a different planet.
“These striking geologic deposits contain one of the world’s richest fossil beds. Ancient mammals such as the rhino, horse, and saber-toothed cat once roamed here. The park’s 244,000 acres protect an expanse of mixed-grass prairie where bison, bighorn sheep, prairie dogs, and black-footed ferrets live today.” – Badlands National Park Service
We had fun exploring the rugged landscape. We were also very excited to spot numerous Big Horn Sheep and to see our first of many Bison on this road trip.
We also made sure to make a stop by the Ben Reifel Visitor Center. We picked up a sticker for our car carrier, a magnet and a National Park Passport Book. I was looking forward to gathering park stamps throughout the trip. I was also happy that I read the Amazon reviews for the passport book, which had a retail price of $30 (on Amazon). Numerous reviews mentioned that you could pick up the exact same book in any of the National Parks for $10. I saved myself $20! Winning!
We left the park as the sun was setting. We had spent about 2.5 hours in the park. Not nearly enough time to fully appreciate the amazing geological formations, but enough time to know that a return visit would be nice. We spotted one more Big Horn Sheep as we were leaving, and he came nice and close for us to get a good look.
We followed Highway 240 out of the park and it led us to Wall Drug Store in Wall, South Dakota. It claims to be one of the world’s most well-known tourist attraction. Chris really talked up Wall Drug and made sure to point out the numerous billboards on our way to the Badlands. Unfortunately, the kids were not very impressed. The souvenir shops and dining choices did not evoke much enthusiasm from the road weary travelers. We got a few pictures, used the restrooms and ended up finding the closest Subway.
We got our sandwiches to go and we were back on the road. It took us about 80 minutes to get to Mount Rushmore National Memorial. We rolled up about 9:45pm. The facility appeared closed, but we were able to park (without paying) and walk into the entrance. There were only a few people there, but the lights were on (until 11pm) and we had a great view of George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln. I got the camera on the tripod and snapped a few pictures. The kids were disappointed to find the gift store closing as they walked up to the door. Thankfully, we would be back in the morning!
We stayed at the Best Western Golden Spike Inn and Suites in Hill City, South Dakota. The hotel was only 25 minutes from Mount Rushmore. So, we were able to get out early the next morning and enter the Memorial before the crowds arrived. The Memorial is free to visit, but there is a $10 parking fee (which we paid this time around).
Day 2 – Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Crazy Horse Memorial and Devils Tower National Monument
We weren’t able to get a picture in front of the sign the night before. So, we were sure to take a moment and grab a shot on Day 2 (August 21st).
While we were at the entrance sign to Mount Rushmore National Memorial, Sydney found a very brightly painted rock, hidden near the sign. It said that it could be kept or hidden again, in another location for someone else to find. She decided to hide the rock somewhere else. She wasn’t sure where, but there were plenty of places to choose from. The kids were pretty excited to find the rock. They too, had placed a few messages on rocks to bring along on the trip and hide in various places along the way.
Before we got our visit underway, I had the kids pose with the presidents. Riley and Noah opted for a more comedic approach. Morgan had them in the palm of her hands. While Sydney joined the foursome by giving her best presidential look.
I was so happy the clouds began to break and the blue skies came out. Mount Rushmore looked amazing!
The main viewing area and visitor center were closed due to renovations. So, we found other locations to grab a few more photos.
I took a few pictures for some visitors and someone was nice enough to return the favor. I was doing my best to be in some pictures. Always a struggle to remember to hand off the camera or in this case, the phone.
It was recommended by my sister to check out the short film telling the story of the building of the Memorial. We were disappointed to find out that the amphitheater (where the film was shown) was also under construction. We opted to take a short hike to the Sculptor’s Studio. The studio is where Guzton Borglum (Mount Rushmore’s sculptor) worked from 1939 to 1941. Inside the studio is a 1/12 scale model of Mount Rushmore. We arrived just in time to hear a park ranger give a 15 minute talk about the workers who helped Borglum create Mount Rushmore and the tools and techniques they used. It was very interesting to hear about the monumental undertaking these individuals took on to create this astonishing sculptor carved on the side of a mountain. It was also quite surprising to view the 1/12 scale and see what the sculptor had envisioned for the Memorial. A vision that was not to come to fruition, mainly as a result of funding issues.
During the park ranger talk, it was briefly mentioned why the sculptor chose these four presidents for his sculptor. There is more information about the choices on the Mount Rushmore National Park Service website.
“George Washington, First President of the United States – Born 1732, died 1799. Washington led the colonists in the American Revolutionary War to win independence from Great Britain. He was the father of the new country and laid the foundation of American democracy. Because of his importance, Borglum chose Washington to be the most prominent figure on the mountain and represent the birth of the United States.” – National Park Service
“Thomas Jefferson, Third President of the United States – Born 1743, died 1826. Jefferson was the primary author of the Declaration of Independence, a document which inspires democracies around the world. He also purchased the Louisiana Territory from France in 1803 which doubled the size of our country, adding all or part of fifteen present-day states. Gutzon Borglum chose Jefferson to represent the growth of the United States.” – National Park Service
“Theodore Roosevelt, 26th President of the United States of America – Born 1858, died 1919. Roosevelt provided leadership when America experienced rapid economic growth as it entered the 20th Century. He was instrumental in negotiating the construction of the Panama Canal, linking the east and the west. He was known as the “trust buster” for his work to end large corporate monopolies and ensure the rights of the common working man. Borglum chose Roosevelt to represent the development of the United States.” – National Park Service
“Abraham Lincoln, 16th President of the United States – Born 1809, died 1865. Lincoln held the nation together during its greatest trial, the Civil War. Lincoln believed his most sacred duty was the preservation of the union. It was his firm conviction that slavery must be abolished. Gutzon Borglum chose Lincoln to represent the preservation of the United States.” – National Park Service
After the ranger talk, we took the Presidential Trail to get a closer look of the Memorial. Most of the trail is stairs. So, the walk back was a little easier. It was a very cool view!
Before leaving, we visited the gift store and picked up our sticker and magnet. We also made another stop at the profile view, before making our way to the Crazy Horse Memorial. Plenty of room to pull off the road to get out of your car and get a good shot.
The Crazy Horse Memorial is about a 30 minute drive from Mount Rushmore. Upon entering we paid $30 (the price for a vehicle). The view of Crazy Horse is a bit far. You can pay extra to take a bus ride that will get you closer. We opted to enjoy the view from the Visitor Center. The pictures below were actually taken from the parking lot.
Once inside we watched a short film about who Crazy Horse was and why the memorial was being created.
“In 1933, Standing Bear learned of a monument that was to be constructed at Fort Robinson, Nebraska. The monument was to honor his maternal cousin, Crazy Horse, who was killed at Fort Robinson in 1877. Standing Bear wrote to James Cook who was steering the planned project – sharing with Cook that he and many of his fellow Lakota leaders had formed the Crazy Horse Memorial Association and were promoting a carving of Crazy Horse in the sacred Paha Sapa – Black Hills. Standing Bear explained that as a relative of Crazy Horse, it was culturally appropriate for him to initiate such a memorial to his cousin. In addition, Standing Bear believed strongly that the Black Hills, because of the spiritual significance to the Lakota people, was the only appropriate place for such a memorial. These two beliefs would finally lead Standing Bear to search for a man with skills great enough to carve a memorial to Crazy Horse. He would not rest until there was a memorial located in the Black Hills which honored his people, and equally large in scope and vision as the memorial being carved at Mt. Rushmore. At one point, he even approached Gutzon Borglum to advocate for a Native American addition to the Shrine of Democracy. In keeping with the legacy of persistence and advocacy that he created during his lifetime, Standing Bear refused to give up. His continued search would eventually lead him to prize-winning sculptor, Korczak Ziolkowski.” – Crazy Horse Memorial Website
After watching the short film, it seemed unclear if the memorial would ever be finished. We then walked around the museum and got a look at what the Memorial will look like when (or if) it is finished. After 71 years of construction, there is definitely much more work to be done.
After leaving the Crazy Horse Memorial we drove through Hill City one last time. There was quite the parade of hotrods and unique vehicles going through town.
Having entered the Black Hills the night before, we couldn’t truly appreciate our surroundings. On our drive out, we were really impressed with the beauty of the National Forest.
We took the scenic route out of the Black Hills National Forest (Alt Route 14), making our way to I-90 (west) to Devils Tower. The drive from Crazy Horse to Devils Tower was going to be just over two hours. Our trip time was going to be a little longer. We made a brief stop to see the Bridal Veil Falls and have lunch in the parking lot of a strip mall.
We arrived to Devils Tower National Monument in Wyoming (4) around 3:30pm. We went through the front gates and received the map and information on the monument.
There are many Native American stories of how Devils Tower came to be. They are all unique in their own way, but with one similarity, a bear created the “scratches” on the side of the rock.
After parking the car we walked the 1.3 mile, paved Tower Trail. The trail took us around the entire base of the Tower. While on the trail, there was a sign that pointed out the remnants of the Rogers and Ripley Stake Ladder. It was a 350 foot ladder, which was constructed in 1893. On July 4th, 1893, Bill Rogers climbed the ladder to the top of Devils Tower.
While walking around the Tower, we saw many cloths attached to trees. We read that they were “Native American prayer cloths and represent the spiritual connection many tribes have with the Tower.” I knew not to touch or disturb the prayer cloths. However, I did not know that some find it culturally insensitive to photograph these prayer cloths. Not knowing this, I took a couple pictures of the cloths attached to the trees. Out of respect for this spiritual tradition, I decided not to include those pictures.
We loved the views that the trail offered and had some fun with the giant boulders located along the route.
After we took a few more pictures with the monument, visited the visitor center for our sticker and magnet, we were back in the car and on our way out.
As we were leaving we noticed a few cars pulled off the road. Curious to see what they were doing, we pulled over, too. Found out it was a prairie dog town (located in the floodplain along the main park road). We stopped and watched for a good 10-15 minutes. The Black-tailed Prairie Dogs were busy bobbing in out of their burrows, grabbing bites to eat and keeping a watchful eye on the many spectators.
The last task before officially departing, was to get a picture in front of the sign.
Our next stop was supposed to be Greybull, Wyoming. We had reservations at the Historic Greybull Hotel. However, as we set out for our 4.5 hour drive, we noticed the weather was beginning to change. When we stopped for dinner in the town of Sheridan, Wyoming, we reevaluated our plan.
We decided to play it safe and not travel in the dark, and rain and along unfamiliar terrain. With the help from a very nice lady at the Historic Greybull, were were able to cancel our reservation that was made through Booking.com, without being charged. We then found a hotel in Sheridan. As we awaited a table for dinner, Morgan and I checked out the artwork found along the sidewalks.
Our last stop of the evening was for dessert down the street at Dairy Queen. Blizzards all around!
Day 3 – Shell Falls, Beartooth Highway and Yellowstone National Park
On Day 3 (August 22nd) we got up very early and made our way through Big Horn National Forest. We were on our way to Shell Falls. The driving time would be 1.5 hours.
Bighorn Mountains are a sister range to the Rocky Mountains. Evergreen forests extending from just above the foothills to the timber line are an amazing site.
We arrived at the Shell Falls Interpretive Site at 8:15am (MST). We were the only ones there, besides one other couple. We could hear the falls before we actually saw them.
“Over the past million years, Shell Creek has incised a deep chasm through the sedimentary stone and ancient granite. The water of Shell Falls, dropping at a rate of 3,600 gallons per second, follows fractures in the resistant granite. Shell Canyon is named for the shell fossils found in the sedimentary canyon walls.” – SheridanWyoming.com
As we made our way out of the Bighorn National Forest we drove along the Shell Creek. We were able to pull over and get a shot with the quick moving creek.
We then made our way to Red Lodge, Montana (5). The drive would take us a little out of our way, but we wanted to drive the Beartooth Highway into the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park. The drive to Red Lodge from Shell Falls would be about 2.25 hours.
Once in Red Lodge (5558 ft), we stopped to have lunch. We got a kick out of our inflated chip bag. I told Riley to open with care. No one wants a potato chip in the eye.
“The Beartooth Highway is a National Scenic Byways All-American Road. This 68 mile byway winds its way through southwest Montana and northwest Wyoming and leads into Yellowstone National Park at its Northeast Entrance. Since opening to automobile travel in 1937 the Beartooth Highway has welcomed visitors from around the world – introducing them to one of the most diverse ecosystems accessible by auto in the United States.” – BeartoothHighway.com
Our first stop was the Rock Creek Vista Point (elevation 9190 ft) in the Custer National Forest. This wayside is twenty-one miles from Red Lodge. Vista Point provides breathtaking views of Rock Creek Canyon and Hell roaring Plateau.
Next stop, Gardner Lake Pullout and Trailhead. Elevation 10,536 feet. This is the trailhead for the Beartooth Loop National Recreation Trail. It is also a great location for viewing the Bear’s Tooth, a pyramidal spire rock formation carved by glaciers and the namesake of the Beartooth All-American Road.
We finally reached the highest point of the Beartooth Highway, The Beartooth Pass Overlook (West Summit), with an elevation of 10,947 feet. There were spectacular views in every direction.
We then came upon the Beartooth Lake on the Beartooth Plateau (elevation 8,900 feet).
We were then super excited to see the Lake Creek Falls (Beartooth Falls). It was a spectacular site! The Beartooth Lake outlet flows under an historic bridge constructed in the 1930’s using unique construction techniques. The high mountain water rushes south through the ravine and then turns to present a magnificent waterfall.
As mentioned, the Beartooth Highway is only 68 miles long. However, with its ever winding road and the numerous stops to take in all the amazing views, it took us three hours to travel the highway. We entered Yellowstone through the northeast entrance at 3pm. We thought we would drive into a line of cars waiting to enter the park. I had heard many stories from visitors about the lines. We were thrilled to see that the northeast entrance was wide open!
We were on our way, through America’s very first National Park (March 1, 1872). We were beyond excited! The first thing we did, once we drove through the gate was to turn on our Guide Along App. I purchased the guide for Yellowstone and Grand Teton for $10 and another guide for the Rocky Mountains for $5. This was money well spent. I can not say enough good things about this app. We literally had our very own travel guide in the car with us. The information was interesting and we learned so much. We were able to access the guide even in areas without cell service. It was awesome! I highly recommend this app to anyone traveling and wanting to learn about the places they are visiting.
Our first Yellowstone experience was driving through Lamar Valley. Sometimes referred to as America’s Serengeti, Lamar Valley is home to many large animals. If you’re fortunate, you might see wolves, bears and bison. On our drive the bison were plentiful.
I had heard and read many stories of the traffic jams that can occur in the valley because of the bison blocking the road. A week before our visit, there was a stampede and numerous vehicles were damaged. Thankfully, on this day, the bison were very cooperative and the number of vehicles on the road were small in number.
Next up, was Mammoth Hot Springs. We were all a little surprised when we arrived and saw there was a small town. We had no idea, people lived inside the National Park.
“Yellowstone’s first superintendents struggled with poaching, vandalism, squatting and other problems. In 1886, US Army soldiers marched into Mammoth Hot Springs at the request of the Secretary of the Interior and took charge of Yellowstone. Soldiers oversaw Fort Yellowstone’s construction—sturdy red-roofed buildings still in use today as the Albright Visitor Center, offices, and employee housing.” – National Park Service
The local elk were relaxing when we arrived. It was obvious that this herd was very comfortable with people. However, there were numerous park rangers to remind the visitors to keep their distance.
We headed to the boardwalk to check out the numerous thermal features. The first thing we noticed was the smell. The amount of sulfur in the air was unavoidable. It would be a smell that we would not get used to over our three day visit. The second thing we noticed were the signs, explaining the dangers of the thermal features. We found them frightening, yet humorous, all at the same time.
The Mammoth Hot Springs has two terrace boardwalks, upper and lower. About 50 hot springs can be found here. The travertine terraces were a highlight.
“At Yellowstone each year, the rain and melted snow seeps into the earth. Cold to begin with, the water is quickly warmed by heat radiating from a partially molten magma chamber deep underground, the remnant of a cataclysmic volcanic explosion that occurred 600,000 years ago. After moving throughout this underwater “plumbing” system, the now hot water rises up through a system of small fissures. Here it also interacts with hot gases charged with carbon dioxide rising up from the magma chamber. As some of the carbon dioxide is dissolved in the hot water, a weak, carbonic acid solution is formed. In the Mammoth area, the hot, acidic solution dissolves large quantities of limestone on its way up through the rock layers to the hot springs on the surface. Above ground and exposed to the air, some of the carbon dioxide escapes from the solution. Without it, the dissolved limestone can’t remain in the solution, so it reforms into a solid mineral. This white, chalky mineral is deposited as the travertine that forms the terraces.” – YellowstonePark.com
Not only were our noses experiencing Yellowstone, but our eyes were in disbelief by the colors that surrounded us.
At one point, Chris reminded us all where we were, in case we forgot.
“If the ground starts shaking, just sit down and watch the show. You ain’t going to escape anyway.”
Thanks Chris, for reminding us, that we are indeed sitting on top of a supervolcano.
One stop we wish we would have made, but was running out of daylight, was to the Boiling River. It is one of the two legal thermal soaking areas in Yellowstone. It is located just north of the Mammoth Hot Springs. Unfortunately, we needed to head south.
We made a quick stop at the Roaring Mountain. At one time this mountain roared from the steam spewing from the vents. Today, it is more of a hiss.
After leaving the Roaring Mountain, the plan was to leave the park and head to dinner. As we approached Norris, it was decided that we would make a quick visit to the Norris Geyser Basin. We were losing light fast, but we were confident that we could make the stop worth our while.
“Norris Geyser Basin is the hottest, oldest, and most dynamic of Yellowstone’s thermal areas. The highest temperature yet recorded in any geothermal area in Yellowstone was measured in a scientific drill hole at Norris: 459°F (237°C) just 1,087 feet (326 meters) below the surface! There are very few thermal features at Norris under the boiling point (199°F at this elevation).” – National Park Service
“Tucked away in the Norris Geyser Basin is Steamboat Geyser, the world’s tallest active geyser. Its major eruptions shoot water more than 300 feet (91 m).” – National Park Service
The only problem with Steamboat Geyser, is that you never know when it will erupt. It could be anywhere from 3 days to 50 years. We had just missed an eruption 2 days earlier.
“Norris shows evidence of having had thermal features for at least 115,000 years. The features in the basin change daily, with frequent disturbances from seismic activity and water fluctuations. The vast majority of the waters at Norris are acidic, including acid geysers which are very rare.” – National Park Service
It was becoming very clear that everyone was getting tired and hungry.
We left the park and had dinner just outside the west gate. Dinner wasn’t great, but we were thankful for the quick service. We finished up and headed out for the 20 minute drive to our home (for the next three nights) in Idaho (6). However, before leaving the restaurant I couldn’t resist getting a picture of Noah on a Noah bench.
The day was jam packed, but we had an awesome first day in Yellowstone. We also thought it was pretty cool that we visited Yellowstone in Wyoming, ate dinner in Montana and stayed in a house in Idaho.
Day 4 -Yellowstone National Park
On Day 4 (August 23rd), I was up by 5:30am. Chris was shocked. I even shocked myself, but I was beyond motivated. Day 2 of Yellowstone was beginning and I wanted to get as much out of it as possible. The kids were up by 6am and we were out the door a little before 7am. We arrived to the west gate at around 7:20am. We drove right in! Once again, no lines to slow us down.
We were making our way to the Old Faithful Visitor Center. We were hoping to get a good spot to view Old Faithful’s eruption before the crowds got too large. On our way to the visitor center we kept an eye out for wildlife and listened to our Gypsy Guide app.
We spotted an Osprey along the river, looking to catch a fish and a female elk in the tall grass.
As we were listening to the Gypsy Guide, we learned about the Geyser Gazers. A group of volunteers (exceeding 300 members) that watch and report on the status of geysers throughout Yellowstone. The group is named the Geyser Observation and Study Association (GOSA). The amount of time they dedicate in observing the geysers helps the National Park offer more accurate data to its millions of visitors, allowing them the chance to see a most phenomenal wonder of nature, a geyser eruption.
While we were in line at the visitor center, waiting to ask the park ranger which geysers they suggested we visited, we were told by another visitor that the Grand Geyser was the geyser to see. Seeing that the Grand Geyser only erupts every 7 hours or so and Old Faithful is every 90 minutes, we headed out to see the Grand Geyser, located in the Upper Geyser Basin. It was due to go off in about 45 minutes.
“The Upper Geyser Basin-Yellowstone’s largest geyser basin and in fact, the world’s largest single concentration of hot springs- occupies about one square mile. Located between the Old Faithful area and the Biscuit Basin road, the Upper Geyser Basin contains several groups of hot springs, including over 150 geysers. The basin is less than a half-mile wide and most of its geothermal features are situated within a few hundred feet of the Firehole River.” – Yellowstonepark.com
It was cold and cloudy. I was keeping my fingers crossed for some sunlight.
When we arrived at the Grand Geyser there were only a few spectators. We got ourselves a good spot and waited. We knew the crowds would be coming. While we waited Chris talked baseball with a gentleman from Missouri. The kids and I enjoyed listening to a father/son Geyser Gazer team. They would periodically get on their short range two-way radios and report their observations. It was nice having them near by. They knew what signs to look for to indicate the eruption was near.
Every geyser has its own level of predictability. So, even though a time is given for the next eruption, there is a span of time given in which the geyser might go before or after the predicted time. The Grand Geyser has a +/- 45 minutes. The Grand Geyser was to go off at 9:30am.
When 9:30am came and went, we were all getting a little anxious. The crowd was really getting large and space was getting tight. When we heard the Geyser Gazers report that they spotted waves, we knew we were getting close. We couldn’t exactly see what they were seeing, but we trusted their expertise.
Then at 10:06am the Grand Geyser erupted. It was absolutely astonishing! And wouldn’t you know it, the sun came out, just in time for the show.
The younger of the two Geyser Gazers got on his radio and reported in, “The Grand Geyser has erupted, One, Zero, Zero, Six.” It was only 36 minutes late from the estimated eruption time and oh so well worth the wait! It was like watching a fireworks show.
After the show ended we quickly made our way back to Old Faithful. It was to go off any minute. Well, I say quickly, but of course I was stopping to take a few pictures along the way.
We were not far when we noticed Old Faithful beginning to erupt. We quickened our pace in order to get a better look before it was over.
“Old Faithful is one of nearly 500 geysers in Yellowstone and one of six that park rangers currently predict. It is uncommon to be able to predict geyser eruptions with regularity and Old Faithful has lived up to its name, only lengthening the time between eruptions by about 30 minutes in the last 30 years.” – National Park Service
We didn’t have front row viewing , but it was still amazing to watch. After the eruption was over (much shorter than the Grand Geyser display) we grabbed a picture in front of the sign and then headed into the Old Faithful Inn.
“As a national historic landmark, Old Faithful Inn is the most requested lodging facility in the park. Built in 1903-1904 with local logs and stone, the Inn is considered the largest log structure in the world. The towering lobby features a massive stone fireplace and a hand-crafted clock made of copper, wood and wrought iron serving as focal points.” – Yellowstone National Park Lodges
After we made a few purchases at the Inn, we made our way to the Black Sand Basin, also located in the Upper Geyser Basin. It gets its name from sands derived from volcanic glass, otherwise known as obsidian.
The first geyser we spotted was the Cliff Geyser. It is perched right on the edge of Iron Spring Creek. Large eruptions are uncommon, but the water frequently splashes over the edge of the cone.
The Emerald Pool is one of Yellowstone’s most famous springs.
The steam coming off the hot springs made for an interesting backdrop.
The Sapphire Pool
We left the Black Sand Basin and went on a little hike to the Mystic Falls. The hike was 2.4 miles (there and back). Not too strenuous and very scenic. We walked along side the Little Firehole River.
While we were on the hike we crossed paths with a family from Chicago. Surprisingly, they were from Bucktown! Neighbors! Such a small world.
When we got to the Mystic Falls we were in awe of its beauty. We spent some time there, just taking in the view and of course taking many pictures.
While we were at the Mystic Falls, Sydney decided to hide the rock that she found at Mount Rushmore. Little did we know that one of the rules when finding the rock, was to not place the rock in any National Park or Monument. I only found this out when I went to report where we had left the rock. I guess that explains why we found the rock near the Mount Rushmore sign and not inside the National Monument. Lesson learned.
Next stop was Biscuit Basin, also located in the Upper Geyser Basin.
Then on to the Midway Geyser Basin. We first checked out the Excelsior Geyser.
“In the 1800s Excelsior Geyser erupted in bursts 50 to 300 feet high. The thermal violence formed the jagged crater and apparently ruptured the geyser’s underground system, causing eruptions to cease after 1890. On September 14, 1985, Excelsior roared back to life with forty-seven hours of major eruptions. It is impossible to predict when this dormant but powerful geyser’s next eruption will occur. Though its eruptions have been erratic, the geyser’s outflow is nearly constant, pumping more than 4,000 gallons of boiling water per minute over the crater rim into the Firehole River” – Hikespeak.com
As we walked along the boardwalk we came upon one the must sees of Yellowstone, the Grand Prismatic Spring. The third largest spring in the world, the Grand Prismatic is bigger than a football field at 370 feet in diameter (football field is 360 feet).
“The hot spring has bright bands of orange, yellow, and green ring the deep blue waters in the spring. The multicolored layers get their hues from different species of thermophile (heat-loving) bacteria living in the progressively cooler water around the spring. And the deep blue center? That’s because water scatters the blue wavelengths of light more than others, reflecting blues back to our eyes.” – YellowstonePark.com
We then went on a little hike to the Grand Prismatic Overlook. This viewing area was built in 2017 and is the best way to view the spring.
Have a little patience when you get up there. We noticed many people taking pictures and then hanging out, not allowing others to grab a shot for themselves. Eventually, someone will make room and the picture will be worth the wait.
Next up was the Lower Geyser Basin. We walked the Fountain Paint Pot Geyser Trail (1/2 mile walk along a boardwalk). We first came upon the Silex Spring.
“This vat of bubbling mud contains the perfect mix of ingredients to create mudpots, heat, gases, water, volcanic rock, minerals and even living microorganisms. Heat- loving, thermophiles consume some of the gases and help convert them into sulfuric acid. The acid breaks down rock to form clay – clay that mixes with water in mudpots.” – National Park Service
“The Great Fountain Geyser has one of the prettiest arrangements of any geyser in the Park. Its vent is located in the middle of a pool, which itself is terraced, with numerous bands and archipelagos of geyserite. Great Fountain also has an interesting eruption cycle, spouting in fits and bursts. Commotion cycles into quiet, which cycles back—and so on and so forth for upward of an hour.” – YellowstoneInsider.com
We left the Fountain Paint Pot Geyser Trail and ended up pulling off on Fountain Flat Drive. Fountain Flat Drive veers off to the west off the Grand Loop Road north of Fountain Paint Pots. It’s a great spot to see bison and other wildlife. We were fortunate to see bison and a coyote hunting along the Firehole River.
We watched him (or her) for a good 10-15 minutes. At one point he realized he was being watched. Only stopped for a moment and then continued looking for dinner.
We then drove the Firehole Canyon Drive. A 2 mile, one way road to the Firehole Falls and the Firehole River Swimming Area.
The Firehole Falls is a 40-foot waterfall amidst 800-foot thick lava flows forming the canyon walls.
The Firehole River Swimming Area is the second of two areas within Yellowstone National Park where swimming is allowed. The first being the Boiling River, mentioned earlier in the post. The kids were surprised to find the water on the cool side. I think we were all expecting warmer waters. I mean with a name like Firehole, what else would you expect?
After our little dip, we decided to make one more stop before leaving the park. We missed the Gibbon Falls, the night before, because it got too dark. So, instead of heading west once we reached Madison, we went east and enjoyed the falls.
Located on the Gibbon River, the falls drop roughly 84 feet in a gradual descent.
After the falls we made our way out of the park through the West Entrance. It was at this time, we experienced our first traffic jam. However, it wasn’t due to a large number of people exiting the park at once. A bull elk was getting plenty of attention. Cars were slowing down and pulling off the side of the road to get a better look. We pulled over, as well. I was only able to get a couple pictures before he disappeared behind the trees.
Once we got back to the house, we had a late taco dinner and got ready for bed. We needed a good night sleep. We had another big day ahead! Before I called it a night, I went outside to capture the Milky Way, as seen in the skies of Idaho.
Day 5 – Yellowstone National Park
Our third day (August 24th) in Yellowstone started like our second day, nice and early. The sun was working hard to burn off the morning fog. It was very clear that the day was going to have plenty of sun and blue skies.
We entered through the west gate (once again) and headed straight for Canyon Village. When we got to Madison, we headed north. Once at Norris, we went east, until we got to Canyon Village. However, on the way there we stopped to check out the Virginia Cascade. Only took a couple minutes and worth the stop.
Once we got to the Canyon Village, we stopped at the Visitor Education Center. I can’t even begin to tell you how helpful it is to go into these visitor centers and talk with the park rangers. Their knowledge of the park is invaluable and definitely helps in making your visit enjoyable. I explained to the park ranger that we wanted to check out the Yellowstone Falls. He told us the best way to view the upper and lower falls. He also filled us in on some closures in the area. One disappointing attraction, Uncle Tom’s Trail was closed. The trail takes you from the top of the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone to the base of the 308-foot-high Lower Falls, with the help of some stairs, 328 to be exact. Turns out that the stairs were in need of some repair. When the engineers went back to see the last time the stairs were repaired or replaced they could not find any records (even going back 100 years). So, they thought it was best to completely replace the battered staircase. Though disappointed, I couldn’t have agreed more on their decision.
On our way to the Upper Falls, we found this handsome bison, alongside the road. No telephoto lens needed here. He was so close, we could have touched him.
Near the entrance of Uncle Tom’s Trail, there is a parking lot. There is a great view of the Upper Falls from this location.
It was then on to Artist Point to get a view of the Lower Falls and take in the magnificence of the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.
“The specifics of the geology of the canyon are not well understood, except that it is an erosional feature rather than the result of glaciation. After the caldera eruption of about 600,000 years ago, the area was covered by a series of lava flows. The area was also faulted by the doming action of the caldera before the eruption. The site of the present canyon, as well as any previous canyons, was probably the result of this faulting, which allowed erosion to proceed at an accelerated rate. The area was also covered by the glaciers that followed the volcanic activity. Glacial deposits probably filled the canyon at one time, but have since been eroded away, leaving little or no evidence of their presence. The present canyon is no more than 10,000 to 14,000 years old, although there has probably been a canyon in this location for a much longer period. The canyon is 800 to 1,200 feet deep and 1,500 to 4,000 feet wide.” – National Park Service
When we arrived at Artist Point a couple buses were in the parking lot. The large number of people made the view from Artist Point a little challenging to see. Now, the nice thing about tour buses, is that they are on a schedule. So, all we had to do was wait a little bit and the crowds were on their way and we were left with an unobstructed view.
From the parking lot at Artist Point, we hopped on a trail to Lily Pad Lake. The hike was about two miles, there and back. Not too strenuous and the views were absolutely breathtaking.
On our way to the lake, we met a nice couple. The husband had gone to University of Illinois and was now retired and living in Montana with his wife. It was such a great part of out trip. Connecting with other people and hearing their stories.
The scenery in every direction was spectacular!
When we arrived at Lily Pad Lake, we did not stay long. Admired the lush vegetation, grabbed a family picture (with help from the tripod) and we were on our way back.
Throughout the trip we were fortunate to see plenty of wildlife. However, we were not prepared for what we were to see on our way back from Lily Pad Lake.
After our unforgettable encounter, we made our way to the Brink of the Lower Falls. When we arrived at the trail there was much discussion as to who was going to go on the hike. The 600 foot decent from the parking lot to the brink of the falls, was going to be challenging. Riley’s knees were sore (two dislocated knees the year before, were taking their toll) and Sydney was unsure she could make it there and back (blood sugar is always a concern when dealing with strenuous activity). After much debate, it was decided we would all go together and just take it nice and slow.
The way down was rather easy and once at the brink, we were all very happy we made the trip down the trail.
Now, the toughest part of our entire stay at Yellowstone was in front of us. Getting back up the trail proved to be rather difficult. Chris worked with Riley and I was with Sydney, Morgan and Noah. We took it very slow and steady, taking numerous breaks along the way. We found strength and inspiration from others making the climb back. One woman had her son strapped to her back, and we’re not talking a baby. He was a good size toddler. Another gentleman had recently had open heart surgery. Him and his wife were from Virginia and had already been on the road for two and a half weeks. Seeing these people, tackle the steep terrain, helped fuel us and eventually got us back to the car.
Before leaving the area, I grabbed one more picture of the Lower Falls.
We then headed back to Canyon Village to grab something to eat. Morgan was nice enough to sing us the menus.
After lunch we took in a little nostalgic Yellowstone.
Morgan even found the perfect sized car.
After we left Canyon Village, we made our way to Yellowstone Lake. We made a brief stop at Lake Yellowstone Hotel. Once inside, it reminded me a little of Hotel del Coronado. Both built in the late 1800’s, these hotels offer a charm and elegance that only buildings from this era could provide.
We continued south alongside Yellowstone Lake, to West Thumb. Once there, we checked out West Thumb Geyser Basin. At this time, kids were wiped out and needed some much needed rest.,
So, Chris and I decided to divide and conquer. He stayed with the sleeping kids, while a did a quick walk around the boardwalk. Once back, he went and did the same.
A view of Lake Yellowstone. The lake is rather large, about 20 miles in length.
“Not long ago, Black Pool really was black. Lower water temperature allowed thick mats of dark green and brown thermophiles to grow in the pool, causing it to appear black. The water temperature rose during the summer of 1991, killing these organisms. Black Pool also erupted that summer and several times the following winter. Like Abyss, Black Pool is now one of Yellowstone’s most beautiful pools.” – Montana State University
After leaving West Thumb, we decided to stop at Old Faithful and see how close it was to the next eruption. We really wanted front row seats, this time around. However, before arriving we drove over the Continental Divide. We of course had to stop and grab some photos.
While we were taking our photos. We saw some bicyclists go by with some major baggage. Chris asked them where they had traveled from. They responded, “Banff, Canada.” Now, that’s what I call a serious bike ride.
One more stop before Old Faithful, was to Kepler Cascades.
“This three-tiered cascade drops over 50 feet as the Firehole River flows North. The Kepler Cascades were actually named in 1881 for the 12 year old son of Wyoming’s territorial governor, Kepler Hoyt, who toured the park with his father, Governor John Hoyt.” – Yellowstone.net
Once at Old Faithful, we were happy to find out that it was about 30 minutes until the next eruption. So, we parked ourselves right in front and waited patiently. At one point a young family sat next to us. Mom, dad and three young children. The baby was being held by mom, a toddler was in the stroller, being entertained by dad and a 3 year old made friends with the Gaietto kids. I couldn’t help but look at this family and think, how I would never in a million years consider a trip like this with children that young. Their sense of adventure was quite compelling. I found it a bit crazy as well, but nonetheless, inspirational.
Within a matter of about 15-20 minutes the crowd really began to fill in.
And just like its name implies, Old Faithful was right on time and delighted the crowd.
After the eruption, we stopped by the Old Faithful Inn, one more time. A few sweatshirts were in need of being purchased.
Once inside, we were surprised to find that Christmas had arrived to Yellowstone. We were all a bit confused.
Turns out that since the Inn is closed in the winter, they like to celebrate Christmas on August 25th. So, technically, we were experiencing Christmas Eve in Yellowstone. Happy we stopped back in and had the chance to see Santa.
We left the park before sunset this time. We wanted to check out our house and the surrounding area. We had been getting up so early and getting back so late, it was always too dark, to get a good look. On our way out, traffic slowed up, once again. It appeared that our bull elk friend was busy grabbing everyone’s attention, again.
Back at the house, we took a little walk down to Henry’s Lake. The homeowners that we were renting from, left us a note that a mother bear with two cubs, had been spotted by the lake.
We didn’t see any bears, but saw a fox on our way back to the house.
The kids tried out the raspberries that were growing just outside the back door.
It was our last night in Idaho. Tomorrow, we would be on our way to Grand Teton National Park!
Day 6 – Grand Teton National Park
Our sixth day of the trip (August 25th) had us up early and packing up the car. We were leaving Idaho, which was home for the last three days and setting out for Grand Teton National Park. It was going to take about 90 minutes to get there. We entered the West gate to Yellowstone for the last time. We headed east to Madison, then southeast toward West Thumb. From there, we went south to Grand Teton National Park. Before exiting Yellowstone, I took one more picture of a Yellowstone bison. We were going to miss that mysterious, volatile and wondrous place. We exited the south gate. Over our three days in Yellowstone, we entered and exited through three of the five gates that welcome you to Yellowstone.
When we saw the Grand Teton sign, we stopped to get a picture. A kind couple offered to take the photo. It’s always nice to get the whole family in the shot.
The views along the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway were stunning.
We made a quick stop at the Jackson Lake Overlook. There was still a little snow atop the mountains.
We then made a brief stop at the Colter Bay Visitor Center. We talked with the ranger and explained how we were planning to take a hike around Jenny Lake. He told us that by the time we would get there it would most likely be very busy. He suggested we go later in the day. The crowds tended to thin out at that time. So, we heeded his warning and decided to take our time and see as much as we could before heading to Jenny Lake.
It was then on to Oxbow Bend.
“An oxbow is a crescent-shaped section of river lying alongside a flowing, winding river. The oxbow is created over time as erosion and deposits of soil change the river’s course.
Oxbow Bend is home to a variety of birds and animals, including pelicans, Great Blue Herons, muskrats, otters, moose, and bear. On calm days, Mount Moran can be seen reflected on the surface of the water. Oxbow Bend is a popular area to view sunrise or sunset, and is visited by photographers hoping to capture the river and Teton Range.” – National Park Service
There was a slight breeze. So, a reflection of Mount Moran on the river was not going to happen.
We spotted a couple juvenile Bald Eagles, a few White Pelicans and numerous Double Crested Cormorants. They were quite far, but I put the 150-600mm telephoto lens to work.
Next stop was the Cunningham Cabin Historic Site.
“The Cunningham Cabin stands as one of the valley’s few remaining structures from the homesteading era when settlers filed nearly 400 claims in Jackson Hole. In the 1880s, John and Margaret Cunningham staked a claim for the Bar Flying U Ranch. Cunningham built his cabin in 1888 in the Appalachian style, commonly called “double-pen” or “dog-trot.” John lived in the cabin until 1895 when he finished his main residence, and it later became a smithy and barn.” – National Park Service
After checking out the cabin, we spotted the horses and wanted to get a little closer.
The Moose Head Ranch is the last privately owned guest ranch completely within the boundaries of Grand Teton National Park. The horses were beautiful!
Always fun to watch city kids experiencing country living.
The view of the Teton Range from the Cunningham Cabin Historic Site is astonishing. I took a series of images and connected them together to get the shot below.
“The Tetons consist of a gigantic fault block uplifted from Earth’s crust beginning some six million years ago. The mountains rise abruptly in the east along the fault line but much more gradually in the west. Over time great glaciers covered the mountains and slowly crunched their way down the slopes, forming characteristic U-shaped canyons. Melting as they reached bottom, these glaciers deposited enormous quantities of rock and debris into accumulations known as moraines. Remnant glaciers dot the higher peaks.” – Encyclopedia Britannica
Before leaving the Cunningham Cabin Historic Site, we had a little fun at the cabin. We imagined what it would have been like to have a drive through in the 1800s.
We continued on our way down US Highway 191/26, heading to the Snake River Overlook. The drive there was very short and the view from the car was spectacular.
“In late 1941 Ansel Adams was contracted by the U.S. Department of the Interior to tour America’s national parks and, using his unique vision, produce imagery that would adorn the department’s new headquarters in Washington, D.C. The project was suspended after less than a year due to the escalation of World War II, but not before Adams visited Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks in the summer of 1942. On that trip he created some of the most memorable images of Old Faithful, Yellowstone Lake, and the Teton Range. One of Adams’ signature photographs, The Tetons and the Snake River, is among 116 images hurtling into deep space on the Voyager spacecraft in order to showcase our planet’s vast diversity and represent our values as human beings.” – Jackson Hole Magazine
Next stop was Schwabacher Landing.
We took a short walk along a path that offered different views of the Teton Range along the Snake River.
“River levels fluctuate throughout the year. The flood plain is the area around a river that experiences flooding while water levels are high. In the park you can see the Snake River meander through its flood plain, creating a braided effect. Schwabacher Landing is a great place to view a flood plain ecosystem.” – National Park Service
While there, we partook in a some rock skipping.
At some point, we did pull over and made some sandwiches for lunch. I think it might have been before Schwabacher Landing, but I’m not sure. What I do remember was the view we had, while eating our lunch in the car (too many bees outside). Well, some of us ate inside the car. The view of the Teton Range, while inhaling our lunch was something I will never forget. You just don’t get to see things like that in Chicago.
We made a stop at the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center. We looked forward to using facilities with plumbing. It was an impressive visitor center.
It was then on to Jenny Lake. We checked out the Jenny Lake Visitor Center to see what would be the best trail to take. Kids were getting tired and Riley’s knees were really sore. We decided to take a hike labeled easy, to the Hidden Falls. We then agreed, once to the falls, we would take the boat back. It was a total compromise. Chris and I wanted to hike the whole thing (4.9 miles) and the kids wanted to take the boat there and back ($10 one way or $18 round trip). With the compromise, we saved $68!
The hike did not start out well. There was plenty of complaining and bickering. Being on the road for six days and jamming every minute of the day with activity was beginning to take its toll. Just as Chris and I were beginning to second guess our decision to hike instead of taking the boat ride, a couple passed us on the trail. They stopped and told us about a moose they saw a little farther up the trail. All we had to do was veer from the hiking trail to Hidden Falls and follow the trail to Moose Ponds. In just a few hundred feet and we would undoubtedly see the moose. Well, to say the least, that got us pretty excited. We hadn’t seen a moose yet, on this trip and we were all wanting to, so very badly.
As we came down the path, overlooking the pond, we saw him! He was glorious!
We couldn’t get over how long he would stick his head underwater. It was very impressive.
We watched that moose for a good 30 minutes. We were the only spectators and we made sure to keep our distance.
That moose was a gift! He completely revitalized the group. After a nice restful break and the feeling of had an incredible experience with wildlife, we were ready to tackle the rest of the hike.
Before leaving Moose Ponds, we wished the National Park Service a Happy Birthday (August 25, 1916).
We told, practically everyone we met on the trail to Hidden Falls, about the moose. We didn’t want them to miss out on such an amazing experience!
As we continued on our way to the Hidden Falls, we began to realize that we were not on the “easy” trail. We had passed that trail a while back. It was under repair. So, now we were on a rather challenging trail. I think we would have gotten a few more complaints than what we did, if it weren’t for the views. They made us all speechless.
Besides the moose, we also saw a marmot.
“Marmots are one of the largest members of the squirrel family. They can be two feet in length and weigh up to 11 pounds. Their large body size is an adaptation to the cold, high elevation sites in which they live. Marmots have reddish-brown fur and a yellow belly, from which they get their name. They are related to woodchucks and groundhogs in other parts of the country.” – National Park Service
After a rather lengthy hike, we finally made it to the Hidden Falls. I was able to grab a few shots before a large crowd of people showed up.
Sydney, Noah and Morgan were feeling a little adventurous and wanted to get themselves a little closer to the falls.
Finally had to call them back. They would have spent much more time, climbing on the rocks.
Before we left the falls, I noticed Morgan and Noah sliding down a tree. My first thought was, “That’s got to hurt.” However, they quickly put my concerns to rest. I have never felt a smoother tree. It was obvious that many children (and most likely many adults) had slid down this tree.
On our way to the boat, we took a moment, so I could photograph the Canyon Creek. I was thankful for how patient the family was (throughout the trip), when waiting for me to take my pictures. They never got annoyed with me pulling out my tripod and it happened a lot. They were all willing to help set it up or take it down. I’m a very lucky lady!
The boat ride back was fun, fast and a little wet.
When we got back to land, we departed for the Mormon Row Historic District. On our way there, we saw some lively bison.
As the sun was beginning to set, I was hoping to get a great shot of the Thomas Alma Moulton Barn. Didn’t think I was going to get the shot. A big group of cowboy dressed high schoolers were participating in a photo shoot. Thankfully, Photoshop helped me remove the teenage cowboys and girls.
“Thomas Alma Moulton claimed land in Jackson Hole in 1807, spending five years to prove up on the homestead, building a small cabin, and beginning the process of turning the land into a home for the family he brought to the area in 1912. The following year he began building a barn, a flat-roofed shelter for his team of horses, Don and Saylor. At the time the barn was capped with shocks of grain to keep at least some of the snow and rain from filtering through the roof. It took Alma Moulton and his sons, Clark and Harley, more than 30 years to complete the barn.” – The Fence Post
Many consider it the most photographed barn in America.
After I was pleased with the shots I got, we quickly headed out and drove back to Schwabacher Landing. The hope was to catch the sunset over the Teton Range.
The colors were not as stunning as I was hoping, but beautiful nonetheless.
We then headed to a much needed dinner. By the time we finished eating the stars were out. I had to get a shot of the starry skies over the Grand Tetons.
We then made our way out of the Grand Teton National Park and drove through Jackson, Wyoming.
It was not my intention to depart Grand Teton National Park, so late. However, by the time we finished up dinner it was about 10:30pm. We then had a three hour drive to Rock Springs, where we were staying the night. It was during this drive that I realized that having done some research on some good podcasts or audio books, would have been helpful. I was searching for entertaining podcasts as Chris struggled to stay awake. I found one titled, “My Dad Wrote a Porn”. It involved the adult child of this dad reading the porn aloud with his friends. It was amusing, but only for a short time. Chris eventually, had to pull over and step out to read a historical landmark. The cool air helped and we were able to safely arrive in Rock Springs, around 1:45am. The woman at the desk was great and actually upgraded our room from two queen size beds to three. No one was sleeping on the floor tonight! Thank you Comfort Inn!
Day 7 – Flaming Gorge, Steamboat Springs and Keystone
On day 7 (August 26th) we left Rock Springs, Wyoming and took UT 530, south to Manila, Utah (7). The drive was very scenic.
We then took UT 44 to Sheep Creek Bay Interpretive Overlook. From this location we had an excellent view of the Flaming Gorge National Recreational Area.
We could see the Cart Creek Bridge in the distance. This bridge crosses one of the creeks that feeds the Flaming Gorge Reservoir.
As we made our way to the bridge, we noticed many Cow Crossing signs. They were very similar to the deer crossings signs we see back home. Thankfully, the signs made us aware to keep an eye out for the cows. Otherwise, we might have had ourselves an incident.
After avoiding a cow collision, we made our way to the Cart Creek Bridge.
Our drive took us onto the Uinta National Scenic Byway through the Ashley National Forest. It was very cool to see the many signs pointing out the dinosaur bones and tracks, sharks teeth, fish scales, and seashells found within the rock formations in the area. It would delight any dinosaur fan. We thought about visiting the National Dinosaur Monument, but soon realized it would take us too far out of our way.
From Flaming Gorge, we headed to Steamboat Springs, Colorado (8). It was about a three hour drive. We arrived in Steamboat at lunchtime.
We grabbed some tacos and ate by the Yampa River.
While we took a moment to relax, I did a little last minute research into an activity we could do while in Steamboat Springs. I found a Alpine Slide, the Howler, not far from where we were. So, after lunch we headed over there. Unfortunately, upon our arrival we found the place to be completely deserted. Though, its online business description stated it was open, there was not one person in sight. I quickly found another location, the Outlaw Mountain Coaster, at the Steamboat Resort. This alpine slide is the longest coaster in North America. It stretches 6,280 linear feet down Steamboat Ski Resort. The kids were beyond excited to take the coaster down the mountain. Regrettably, our first stop at the Howler, made our arrival to the Outlaw, 5 minutes too late. The last run of the day occurred at 5pm. I was shocked that they shut down so early in the summer. So, if you’re ever in Steamboat Springs, be sure to check out the Outlaw and then let us know how it was. Thanks!
Our next leg of the day’s drive would take us to Keystone, Colorado. It would be a two hour drive. It was nice to show the kids where Chris and I were engaged back on January 18, 1998. When we arrived, Keystone was a ghost town.
There was not many stores open and to our dismay, no restaurants open for business. We walked around, checked a few things out, and grabbed some cookies to go.
It was a brief stop, but happy we could share this special place with the kids. Hopefully, we can go back when it looks more like it did when we got engaged.
It would take another two hours to get to Boulder, Colorado. We would be staying at a Courtyard Marriott for the next two nights. On our way to Boulder, we drove under the Continental Divide, using the Eisenhower – Edin C. Johnson Tunnel.
“It is the highest vehicular tunnel in the world—at an elevation of 11,013 feet at the East Portal and 11,158 feet at the West Portal. The Tunnel traverses through the Continental Divide at an average elevation of 11,112 feet.” – CODOT
We arrived in Boulder, CO around 9:30pm, grabbed a late dinner and checked in to the Courtyard.
Day 8 – Rocky Mountain National Park
The 8th day of our trip (August 27th), was spent exploring Rocky Mountain National Park. It was an hour drive from Boulder to Estes Park. It was through Estes Park that we entered the east gate to Rocky Mountain National Park. No line at the gate, once again. We were getting spoiled and loving it!
I had read that the #1 attraction at the park was Bear Lake (elevation 9475 ft). So, we headed there first hoping to beat the crowds. We took Bear Lake Road, off of Route 36. As we got closer, we started noticing signs for remote parking and the shuttle bus. Even our Gypsy Guide mentioned, we would probably have to take the shuttle bus to Bear Lake. We decided to take our chances and drove past the remote parking and drove to the main lot (which is not very large). Once there, you were basically allowed to take one loop around the lot. If you couldn’t find a spot, you had to leave the lot. No second loop, allowed. Sadly, we did not find a spot our first time around. Luckily, a ranger allowed us to wait a couple minutes before leaving the lot and then allowed us to go around one more time. We were so very thankful for that ranger. On our second loop around, we found a spot!
We walked the short trail to Bear Lake and took the path that looped around the lake (0.7 miles). The hiking for the day was going to be minimal. Riley’s knees were experiencing a lot of pain.
The view from every direction along the path was beautiful.
At one point along the path, Sydney and Noah found themselves in a treacherous situation.
Well, maybe not that treacherous.
The chipmunks were fearless. You could tell they were very comfortable around humans and were most likely fed quite often. It was also very clear that the park was at its wits’ end trying to explain to visitors the importance of not feeding these adorable little rodents. There was plenty of signage explaining the numerous diseases one could contract from these sweet furry creatures.
After taking the loop around Bear Lake, Chris and I wanted to take the short hike to Alberta Falls (1.5 miles round trip). The kids were not up for it. We decided to leave them near the information booth, with a phone and walkie talkie. We were comfortable leaving them near the rangers and with numerous options to get a hold of us. We figured we could be there and back in about 30-35 minutes.
On our way back, we took some video to show the kids how “dangerous” the hike was.
We got back in one piece and in about 35 minutes. Kids were happy to see us, but enjoyed the rest. We then got into the car and took the 10 minute drive to Sprague Lake (elevation 8690 ft.)
“Abner Sprague homesteaded in this area more than a century ago and created a trout pond by damming a stream. Lovely Sprague Lake offers views of the high peaks. Sprague also undoubtedly appreciated the breathtaking views of the Continental Divide, which are best seen from the half-mile-long trail at the far end of the lake.” -RockyMountainNationalPark.com
We walked the 1/2 mile nature trail, which looped around the lake. Even though Bear Lake is considered the #1 attraction in the park, I thought the views from Sprague Lake were even better.
We departed Sprague Lake and made our way to Route 36. We continued west. We made a right onto Fall River Road. We stopped at West Horseshoe Park overlook.
“A 500-foot thick glacier once covered this valley. As the valley glacier inched along over hundreds of years, it scoured out the distinctive U-shaped valley. At the farthest point of the glacier’s advance it deposited a load of rock fragments, called terminal moraine. About 15,000 years ago, the glacier began to recede. As it dissipated, the glacier dropped rubble along its flanks, forming lateral moraines, and the melt water also left behind sediments that became the meadows of Horseshoe Park.” – RMNP.com
We had lunch at a picnic area (elevation 8660 ft.) at the very end of Endovalley Road. Chris made us some sandwiches, while I snapped some pictures of Stellar’s Jays, that were busy feeding on insects.
From where we had lunch, you could take the Old Fall River Road.
“Opened in 1920, Old Fall River Road earned the distinction of being the first auto route in Rocky Mountain National Park offering access to the park’s high country. Unlike Trail Ridge Road, which is well known for being the highest continuous paved road in the nation, the Old Fall River Road is a much more “motor nature trail.” The posted speed limit is 15 miles per hour, a clear indication that a journey up Old Fall River Road is not for the impatient. There are no guard rails along this road. The road itself is safe, but narrow and curved.” – National Park Service
We opted to skip the Old Fall River Road. The minivan was already driving a little rough (it was not responding well to mountain roads) and we didn’t want to take any chances.
We drove back down Endovalley Road, the same way we came in and stopped at the Alluvial Fan (elevation 8610 ft.).
“On July 15, 1982 at 5:30 a.m. Lawn Lake broke through the terminal moraine that had held since the end of the last ice age, thousands of years ago. The release of 29 million gallons of water swept trees and car-sized boulders four miles down to the valley floor. A trash collector heard the waters crashing down the Roaring River and called park rangers, who evacuated campers at Aspenglen campgrounds. Two were lost to the flood at the campground and one along the Roaring River. Much of the flood’s force was weakened while submerging the meadows of Horseshoe Park, but still had enough force to flood the town of Estes Park to a depth of six feet. Lake Estes to the east of town contained the floodwaters preventing further damage.” – RMPN.com
The picture below shows the location of an original sign before the rock and water came down the mountain side. From the picture, you can see how high the rocks filled the area.
After our short hike and learning about the Lawn Lake Flood, we got ourselves on the Trail Ridge Road.
“Covering the 48 miles between Estes Park on the park’s east side and Grand Lake on the west, Trail Ridge Road more than lives up to its advanced billing. Eleven miles of this high highway travel above treeline, the elevation near 11,500 feet where the park’s evergreen forests come to a halt. As it winds across the tundra’s vastness to its high point at 12,183 feet elevation, Trail Ridge Road (U.S. 34) offers visitors thrilling views, wildlife sightings and spectacular alpine wildflower exhibitions, all from the comfort of their car.” – National Park Service
We stopped at Beaver Ponds. We were hoping to see some wildlife, but the vegetation was very thick and we couldn’t really see much past the boardwalk.
The drive to Many Parks Curve (elevation 9640 ft.) was picturesque.
Next up was Rainbow Curve overlook (elevation 10,829 ft.).
We were so high, we felt like we could touch the clouds.
On to Forest Canyon overlook (elevation 11,716 ft.).
The landscape was really starting to look different. We were above the tree line and the tundra terrain had taken over.
Rock Cut overlook (elevation 12,050 ft.) was gorgeous. The mountain pools looked magical.
“Rock Cut, a projecting rock formation at 12,110′ elevation, had to be cut through by road crews in order to allow the Trail Ridge Road to pass. The highly resistant rock was blasted away with large quantities of explosives; in one case, 178 shots (a half ton of black powder) were wired together and fired at one time. The workers took special care to preserve the surviving stone monoliths on the down slope side, wrapping them in timber to protect them from rocks hurled by the blasting.” – RMNP.com
The Lava Cliffs (elevation 12,080 ft.) were next. We were able to see lava that formed millions of years ago from volcanic rifts.
We then reached the highest point on Trail Ridge Road (12,183 ft.). So, I took a picture outside of Chris’ window.
We were now heading down the other side of the mountain. Gore Range (12,010 ft.) was next.
“Between the 11,000 and 11,500 foot elevation in the Rocky Mountain National Park lies the upper limit of the sub-alpine forest. Trees rarely survive above this altitude, where summer temperatures average less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The line between forest and tundra is also shaped by snowdrifts, wind, avalanches, and exposure: forest reach higher on warmer south-facing slopes than on cooler north-facing ones.” – RMNP.com
We then arrived to the Alpine Visitor Center. It is the highest visitor center in the United States.
While there we got some snacks and checked out the gift store. Picked up our sticker and magnet. We did not purchase the poop book.
After leaving the visitor center, we made a stop at Milner Pass (elevation 10,758 ft.). It was here that we got a better understanding of the Continental Divide.
We also had a nice view of Poudre Lake.
From Milner Pass, there was also an amazing panoramic view of the Never Summer Mountains. This mountain range has seventeen named peaks.
We made one more stop before leaving Rocky Mountain National Park. Coyote Valley Trail (elevation 8,840 ft.). The trail is only one mile (round trip). The kids did not want to go. So, Chris and I went ahead, on the quick hike. As I was overly excited, getting a picture of a sandpiper, Chris had gone ahead (off the gravel path). As I was snapping away, Chris was trying to get my attention, by waving his arms quite vigorously. Not sure how long he was at it before I finally realized what he was doing.
He waved me over and as we walked around the bend, I was absolutely thrilled by what we saw.
A mother moose (C5) and her baby! There was a small river separating us from them. We moved slowly and made sure not to startle the two. The baby was adorable. I could have watched them for hours, but we knew we had to get back to the kids. Boy, were they bummed that they didn’t join us on the hike.
As we continued on our way down the Trail Ridge Road, we noticed many cars pulled off the side of the road. That usually means only one thing. Wildlife has been spotted. So, we pulled off, as well. Sure enough a Bull moose (A8) could be seen in the distance.
He would be the last moose we would see at Rocky Mountain National Park and sadly the last moose of the trip.
We grabbed a picture in front of the park sign, before saying goodbye to Rocky Mountain National Park.
As we made our way to Winter Park, we drove past Lake Granby. Spotted a few Canadian Geese, flying close to the water.
Once we were in Winter Park, I did a quick Google search for restaurants in the area. At this point, our dining experiences on this road trip had not been great. The food had been edible, but nothing to write home about. We were due for something good. I found The Ditch on 40. Easily described as a dive, this place was perfect! We found it cool that Illinois was represented on the wall and the kids were blown away by the size of the drinks.
The food was delicious and the dessert was fantastic! Churros and ice cream!!
We were finally happy we found a good place to eat.
Before leaving Winter Park, we had to check out the bus stop. It was quite different from the ones back home.
It was a 90 minute drive back to Boulder. Once there, we packed up and got a good night sleep. It was going to be a long ride home.
Day 9 – The Drive Home
On the 9th day (August 28th) we packed the minivan and made the 15.5 hour drive home (just over 1,000 miles). We drove through Nebraska (9) and Iowa (10). During the entire trip we covered 4,141 miles. We were welcomed home with some fireworks.
It was an awesome trip. One we will not soon forget!
Sharon Gaietto Photography 